The stupendous Icefields Parkway

Leaving Adina, Sheala and Jacque's hospitality, and fine river walks, in Squamish, we wind our way north into the mountains of the Lillooet Range. There really are bears right by the side of the highway. Having just recently emerged from their winter dens above the snowline, they are now descending in search of food.

The mountain roads are steep, bumpy, and beautiful, and thankfully the road surface is snow free. At Kamloops we cut north again up the Yellowhead Highway (that would be us white folk), and transition from the steep mountain passes to the broad shouldered ranching valleys.
Alluvial farmland and horse ranches are below us by the river-banks, and above us are jagged, snow-capped peaks. The road follows a modest plateau between the two zones.
This is our first days real driving, and we cover about three hundred miles, finally camping in a pinegrove, sipping cocktails as the half moon rose.
What a stunning drive.

In the morning we decide on a fast getaway - and make it away by 11.00am. Passing by the mountains in the shadow of Mt. Robson, 12,972', and highest point in the Canadian Rockies, we roll into Jasper at about 6.00pm, still gasping from the scenery. We face a choice between shoe shopping, dinner, visiting the Lodge, or a film, and so we decide to do all four, and then find a camping spot.
Using local knowledge gleaned from the helpful chap in the shoe store, we learned that there were no shoes for me, and that there was only one Mountie looking for riffraff like us this early in the season, so nudge, nudge etc, etc.
So after the lodge, some local beer, a movie, and a dog walk, we settled in the quiet "Outfitter Premises" area of town - across the railroad tracks - where the river rafters/ bike trip/ ice hiker offices and vehicle parking was - lots of white vans for us to blend into - and free!

Seven o'clock in the morning brings us fresh brewed coffee, and fresh elk droppings in the woods just feet from the van door.
We head off on a trail with the dogs, then head back into town for pastries, coffee and wireless internet access for the laptop- we are SO modern I can't believe it's so!
Today we drive the Icefields Parkway - down the backbone of the Continental Divide through the Rocky Mountains to Banff.
And it is really spectacular to behold. Black Bears munching flora (not Flora - she was taken by a Grizzly (Ursus Horribilis - it's even terrifyling in Latin)) by the side of the road, Bighorn Sheep perching on ledges, Elk meandering in the glacial river beds, and the sharp, pointy peaks all around us. Most lakes are still frozen, concealing their dramatic azure colour below the ice, but the rivers are swelling with ice melt and the waterfalls are roaring.

We were nervous taking this mountain route so early in the season, but are so glad we did. The first, and only, campsite in these National Parks just opened on May 09 so we are among the 'early-birds' for a change. After a drizzly start, we ended the day with glorious afternoon sunshine as we follow cold lively rivers along wide rounded rock strewn river beds. Now we think this is the best time to be here. Traffic is very light, and the roads bare. We cruise along at 45mph looking for the usual stuff - bears and elk, avalanches and glaciers - with no one in the rear view mirror, and were reminded of our time in magnificent New Zealand. Up and away from the road, steep snow covered scree slopes are populated with conifers just peaking their crowns above the snow. At this time of year, the ice, exposed rocks, and forested slopes contrast beautifully.

Our day ends at Lake Louise, rather than Banff.
As we suspected the lake was frozen over, but the ice was thin enough to warrant the 'Warning - Thin Ice" signs. The mountains around the lake are intimidating and protective, like the 'guest only' signs on the Fairmont hotel doors.
Rather than forage for a free space in the Industrial Area of Banff, we opt for a free space in a very sparsely visited car park above the Fairmont Chateau at Lake Louise. There are giant piles of snow to conceal our presence, and only a couple of empty tour buses for company. As the sun gleams on the peaks ringing the lake, we settle in with vodka tonics, and the calls of the mountain robins. It's also getting very cold.

Twenty years ago we share a memory of sleeping out in Africa on 3/8 inch thick foam pads. Now we are sleeping on a 7 inch mattress, with it's own memory foam.
Some things may have changed, but we are still looking for a free place to sleep by the side of the road. Good cocktails are the common thread.