We turn onto Hwy 50 - the lonliest highway in America - straight down to the middle of Nevada through the Toiyabe Mountain Range. Tonight we are camped in a wildlife viewing area in the foothills, snow-capped mountains rise abruptly on either side of the valley. Curry and cocktails are followed by watching 'Big Love' in preparation for Utah. 

The days are hot and dry, the shimmering horizon seems impossibly far away, and the nights cool down fast.

We exit into Utah through the Snake Range at 7000 feet elevation, into the land of white mirages and dry salt lakes of the Sevier Desert.

In the afternoon we are astonished as we pass through the San Rafael Swell, a vast seabed 160 million years ago, but now thrust upwards by plate tectonics, it's strata exposed and weathered into other-wordly appearance.

The followers of Mormon, who settled in this region, must have thought they were approaching hell itself. 

We haven't spotted any polygamists yet, despite our Big Love primer.

Tonight we are aiming for Fruita, just over the Colorado border, where I chanced upon great BBQ pork last time we passed this way. Not many great dinner choices for Karen, but I leave with sticky fingers and a big smile.